When Chazal’s colours meet the flavours of Mauritius

At the crossroads of pictorial poetry and culinary fire, an unexpected encounter is taking place from May 7 to June 7, 2025, at the Labourdonnais Waterfront Hotel. This culinary festival, titled "Dialogue between Art and Taste – Creole Cuisine in Poetry", pays tribute to Mauritian cuisine, drawing inspiration from the flamboyant world of Malcolm de Chazal, painter and poet, whose works are on display at the Blue Penny Museum until June 7.

Behind this vibrant menu is Chef Nizam Peeroo, a man of passion, deeply rooted in Mauritian soil. “I wanted to work with some of the ingredients we’re losing. Where are our 'brèdes malbar', our 'pois carrés'?” he asks. His heartfelt cry becomes a culinary act. He cooks to awaken the memory of forgotten flavours.

Each dish tells a story. The 'chiquetaille' of 'cordonnier' fish, spiced with fried curry chili and tamarind vinaigrette, is paired with sprouted lentils. “A cold starter, something rare in our traditional cuisine,” notes the chef, who’s not afraid to break new ground while respecting tradition.

Another signature dish: braised heart of palm. A rare, slow-growing ingredient that here becomes the setting for a Creole spice mousseline – 'cotomili', ginger, garlic, thyme, green saffron – topped with a 'camarons' coulis. River prawns add a subtle, emotional intensity. “These are ingredients that speak. You have to listen to them.”

Every plate evokes a facet of Mauritius’ culinary heritage, from 'achard de cabri' to green papaya 'samoussas', to 'rasson with 'crabe carrelet'. “'Rasson' is the dish for the day after a celebration, the dish that cures a hangover. I’ve enriched it with crab, tamarind, and breadfruit,” explains Nizam Peeroo with a smile. A subtle way to elevate these popular dishes to a place of honour.

The project, born from a collaboration between the Labourdonnais Waterfront Hotel and the 'Kareron' initiative of the Eclosia Group, goes beyond a mere gastronomic experience. It is part of a larger effort to preserve and pass on Mauritius' culinary heritage. Géraldine Darpoux, Head of the Cultural Entrepreneurship Department, emphasizes: “This festival is a pilot project. Starting in July, we will launch training programmes to share this knowledge with both chefs and kitchen assistants, from garden to plate.”