“Ki Pou Kwi?” A book to understand how Mauritius eats… and how it will eat tomorrow

What did people eat in Mauritius when chicken was reserved for special occasions, when leafy greens were picked along the roadside, and when some families never had access to fresh fish? These questions are at the heart of "Ki Pou Kwi? Histoires, mémoires et futurs de l’alimentation mauricienne", a book published following research carried out for Panagora. It traces the history of Mauritian food from the precolonial period to the present day. The book was launched on Thursday 18 June, after several years of research and the collection of personal testimonies.

Far from being a recipe book or a simple historical account, Ki Pou Kwi? explores how food has shaped Mauritian society and the challenges that lie ahead. The reflection began during the Covid-19 pandemic, when concerns around food supply revived discussions on food self-sufficiency.

“Questions of self-sufficiency are not questions of the past; they are questions of the future,” recalled Yovan Jankee, Sustainability & Communication Manager at Panagora. He co-wrote the book with Maya de Salle, anthropologist and Cultural Project Manager at Eclosia, and artist Aliya Chojoo. The illustrations are by Steffi Petit, Graphic Designer at Panagora.

To explore this question, the team traced several centuries of food history. Maya de Salle collected memories from Mauritians of different generations, regions and communities. Through their stories emerges a diverse island, where eating habits varied according to available resources, place of residence and economic circumstances. “Food is at the crossroads of our identities and our heritage,” she explained.

The testimonies also reveal how rapidly Mauritian society has changed. For many families, meat was once a rare product. Some ate chicken only once a month. Others lived mainly on what they grew or gathered themselves. “It is important to preserve this oral memory before it disappears,” stressed Maya de Salle.

To extend this work of remembrance, the authors have also launched a podcast series based on the interviews conducted across the island. It is a way of preserving the voices of those who recount the evolution of Mauritian eating habits.

The book also shows that the Mauritian plate cannot be reduced to a few iconic dishes. Behind dholl puri, briani or fried noodles lie adaptations, blending and multiple influences that have given rise to a cuisine that is deeply Mauritian.

For Aliya Chojoo, who focused on current practices and possible futures of food, the project also opens up a reflection on our relationship with the land. She met people who grow their own food, develop community projects or experiment with more sustainable production methods. “It is possible to build a more respectful relationship with nature and with what we eat,” she said.

The discussion with the audience extended this reflection. Asked about the disappearance of certain marine species, Maya de Salle pointed out that the testimonies she collected also refer to the environmental changes that have shaped the island. She notably mentioned the dugong, once present in Mauritian lagoons and now extinct.

Another question focused on social and cultural differences in food. “We do not all have access to the same ingredients and the same dishes,” the anthropologist noted, reminding the audience that eating habits have long reflected economic inequalities and social belonging.